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, Kazuo Hozumi, Takanori Saida, Age Ogura, Koichi Yamazaki, Kensho Onuki, Nobuyuki YoshinariBiblio.com

[JAZZ AGE TEXTILES -- WEAVING BOOKS]. SCHUMANN, Otto F[ranz].Biblio.com

Philadelphia Textile School manuscript textile sample books filled with weave formation plates textile samples drawings.

192554342Philadelphia PA: Otto F. Schumann Philadelphia Textile School ca. 1925. Small 4to. 8.25 x 9.2 in. 75 leaves unnumbered including 32 leaves with detailed colour charts on weave formations producing various kinds of cloth 3 tipped-in textile samples together w/ weaving instructions in manuscript. Original limp leather 3-ring binder gilt lettering stamped on front cover ink lettering & association of Otto F. Schumann on front cover some soiling dustsoiling edgewear still VG exemplar. This Jazz Age weaving manuscript notebook complete with weave formation design plates fabric samples and instructions offer a remarkable and invaluable artifact of how a young American textile designer and weaver received training at the famed Philadelphia Textile School now Philadelphia University during the 1920s. These course books were judged on completeness and the aspiring weaver’s skill in presenting the details about the instruction as well as their abilities in running the machinery required to produce the cloth. This manuscript notebook includes Schumann’s detailed plates and notes on producing color effect on the plain weave creating Broken Twills Crowfoot Satins Checked & Figured Broken Twills Entwining Twills Basket Weaves and Broken Satins. The extensive manuscript notes detail the loom instructions how many lines are required composition and more in producing the assorted effects. Because of the poor quality of United States textiles exhibited at the Centennial Exhibition in 1876 the Philadelphia Textile Manufacturers pushed for a formalized vocational school to train weavers designers and textile workers. In 1884 it became part of the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art with 81 students enrolled by 1885 and by 1894 the School of Textiles added a Department of Wool Carding & Spinning and a Department of Cloth Finishing and Design. By the 1920s the Philadelphia Textile School was offering extensive three-year textile courses chemistry and dyeing courses as well as design courses in cottons woolens worsteds silks Jacquard design and more. Schumann 1906-1967 was the son of Hugo Schumann founder and owner of the Maid Hosiery Mills in Reading PA through the opening decades of the 20th century for whom he worked with until after World War II as designer and sales executive. Otto F. Schumann, Philadelphia Textile School, hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis450,00 $US≈ 380,75 €

[New England – Gilded Age – Women] Coolidge, Alice Brackett WhiteBiblio.com

My Early Reminiscences / Alice B Coolidge 1926

1926List3141Quincy Massachusetts: unpublished 1926. 201 pp cardstock wraps. Normal wear to wraps; overall Near Fine. Alice Brackett White Coolidge 1864â€“1927 was a Boston socialite of the prominent Richardson family; her grandfather was merchant and Massachusetts State Legislator Jeffrey Richardson. Coolidge was also the author of three childrenâ€™s books: The Bunnies of Evergreen Village 1917 The Refugees in Evergreen Village 1918 and Evergreen Village to the Rescue 1922. Offered here is Coolidgeâ€™s unpublished memoir of her early life written in 1926 titled My Early Reminiscences. The memoir recalls Coolidgeâ€™s childhood and teen years spent mainly in Massachusetts New Hampshire and Maine. Her recollections typically involve extensive descriptions of the houses at which her family stayed the scenery around them and the various families they met and visited with. Given her position in society her acquaintances are sometimes quite influential people: Princeton president John Grier Hibben enjoys Coolidgeâ€™s fishcakes; Trinity Church rector Phillips Brooks gives her grandfather an â€œexcellent pewâ€ in the newly-finished church; pioneering doctor Alfred Worcester mistakes red pepper for mercury in a scientific demonstration at her school; and she recalls brief correspondences with John Greenleaf Whittier and William James. Coolidge also took dance lessons from Augustus Papanti whom she describes as â€œone of the thinnest men I ever sawâ€ who was â€œvery melancholy. I hardly remember his ever smilingâ€; and remembers Judge Charles Devens for â€œhis great stature his charming face his courtliness of manner and his really boyish simplicity in entering into our evening gamesâ€ including a game of â€œmind readingâ€ which Devens played â€œwith zest.â€ One of her longtime friends was Rear Admiral John E. Pillsbury. She recalls: â€œMr. Pillsbury as a young naval man a brother-in-law of my uncle Dr. Richardson used to take me out in the swan-boats on the Public Garden Pond. Later he went through all the ranks up to being retired as a Rear Admiral but time and circumstances never changed him. We always met at Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners and always talked at great length. . He was a wonderfully interesting lovable man and very modest and unassuming and shy. I always considered him one of my best friends though older by many years than I.â€ Another interesting New England figure Coolidge encountered was Joseph Lee. She describes Leeâ€™s hotel in Newton: â€œThe house where we stayed was kept by a remarkable man named Joseph Lee. He was a mulatto much above many of his kind and his wife was a handsome woman partly Indian. They did the cooking and he waited on table with a colored maid to help him. In fact there were no white women in the house. The cooking was delicious.â€ Lee was born enslaved in South Carolina freed in 1865 and went on to invent the automatic bread kneading and bread crumbing machines. Though nearly all of her childhood was spent in New England she also remembers being invited to visit Charles Joseph Bonaparte in Baltimore: â€œWe had never been so far south except to Washington and I felt a curious feeling of being in a different atmosphere from any I had known. . We were met at the station by Mrs. Bonaparte in a large roomy covered vehicle with two horses. The coachman and footman were in the Bonaparte colors -- a deep wine color. The footman I well remember. He was a light-colored young negro very handsome and smiling and excited over having young ladies from the North. . All the servants were colored and lived in cabins near the house. . I never knew Mr. Bonaparte in public life so my memories of him are quite intimate and I fancy I saw much of his real self. . His mind was very active. He used to talk or listen as he walked and he moved his head in a curious way from one side to the other with a slightly rolling motion which was distinctly individual. . I never saw him irritated or excited and he was always very simple. In the group picture we had taken at the Maplewood he sat down cross-legged on the piazza floor like a boy. That was in about 1887. I suppose in public life or in law he was different but he was very equable and charming as we met him in his home and at the mountains. Most of all I admired his sweet tender ways with his flower-like wife.â€ This was not too long after the end of Reconstruction and Coolidge remarks on the tense atmosphere: â€œMrs. Bonaparte had warned me to be careful about questions regarding the North and South as the â€˜feelingâ€™ had not yet died away. I was so glad she had warned me. A gentleman slipped in and sat down beside me to watch a parade and whispered in my ear as the bands had been playing â€˜Dixieâ€™ how glad he was to meet a Northerner. I was glad to meet him too although I remember neither his name nor face but I felt I breathed freer in his sympathetic locality. . I had no idea that this feeling still remained as far North as Baltimore and of course I remembered how our Massachusetts troops had been fired upon in Baltimore at the outset of the war but I was admonished and very wise and only returned my unremembered neighborâ€™s greeting with a sympathetic word and look.â€ Besides individuals Coolidge does cover a few historical events including the Great Boston Fire of 1872: â€œOh! a horrible sight met our eyes. Back of the opposite houses in Park Square was a background of sheets of red flames and heavy black smoke rising high into the air. . On the Parade Ground all was in confusion and the sight was very sad and never-to-be-forgotten. It was literally covered with boxes and bales of furniture and sad forlorn desperate looking people crouching or sitting or standing amidst what they had saved from their homes . At night . the whole city was in darkness as there was no gas.â€ The family also frequently stayed at hotels in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and Coolidge recalls the â€œoverwhelmingly tragicâ€ effects of the 1867 sale of this land to logging companies; she writes that looking out from the Flume House in Franconia â€œall about were brown scarred places marking the woodchoppersâ€™ work which was cutting away our beautiful trees for lumberâ€. In this memoir Coolidge supplies detailed remembrances of the private personalities of influential figures of Gilded Age New England. We find two copies of My Early Reminiscences on OCLC. Of interest to historians of the era especially as told through the perspective of a young woman. unpublished unknown

Auger Down Books · États-Unis650,00 $US≈ 549,97 €

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