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Metropolitan Museum of artMareMagnum

Chema Cobo Prints 1984-1987. A Viewing and Sale.

MOURGUE PierreMareMagnum

Chez Perugia ou Le Bottier à la mode (pl.34, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1924 n°7)

- Lucien Vogel éditeur, Paris 1924, 18x24cm, une feuille. - Original color print, printed on vergé paper, signed in the plate. An original print used to illustrate the Gazette du bon ton, one of the most attractive and influential 20th century fashion magazines, featuring the talents of French artists and other contributors from the burgeoning Art Deco movement. A celebrated fashion magazine established in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton appeared until 1925, with a hiatus from 1915 to 1920 due to the war (the editor-in-chief having been called up for service). It consisted of 69 issues printed in only 2,000 copies each and notably illustrated with 573 color plates and 148 sketches of the models of the great designers. Right from the start, this sumptuous publication "was aimed at bibliophiles and fashionable society," (Françoise Tétart-Vittu, "La Gazette du bon ton", in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016) and was printed on fine vergé paper using a type cut specially for the magazine by Georges Peignot, known as Cochin, later used (in 1946) by Christian Dior. The prints were made using stencils, heightened in colors, some highlighted in gold or palladium. The story began in 1912, when Lucien Vogel, a man of the world involved in fashion (he had already been part of the fashion magazine Femina) decided, with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff - the sister of Jean, creator of Babar - to set up the Gazette du bon ton, subtitled at the time: "Art, fashion, frivolities." Georges Charensol noted the reasoning of the editor-in-chief: "'In 1910,' he observed, 'there was no really artistic fashion magazine, nothing representative of the spirit of the time. My dream was therefore to make a luxury magazine with truly modern artists...I was assured of success, because when it comes to fashion, no country on earth can compete with France.'" ("Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel" in Les Nouvelles littéraires, no. 133, May 1925). The magazine was immediately successful, not only in France but also in the United States and Latin America. At first, Vogel put together a team of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt, as well as eventually his friends from school and the School of Fine Arts, like George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Charles Martin. Other talented people soon came flocking to join the team: Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Chalres Martin, Maggie Salcedo. These artist, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel sought them out, later became emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. It was also they who worked on the advertising drawings for the Gazette. The plates put the spotlight on, and celebrate, dresses by seven designers of the age: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The designers provided exclusive models for each issue. Nonetheless, some of the illustrations are not based on real models, but simply on the illustrator's conception of the fashion of the day. The Gazette du bon ton was an important step in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic demands with the physical whole, it brought together - for the first time - the great talents of the artistic, literary, and fashion worlds; and imposed, through this alchemy, a completely new image of women: slender, independent and daring, which was shared by the new generation of designers, including Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas, and so on... Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, the Gazette du bon ton was an important influence on the new layout and aesthetics of that "little dying paper" that Nast had bought a few years earlier: Vogue. [FRENCH VERSION FOLLOWS] Estampe originale en couleur, tirée sur papier vergé, signée en bas à droite de la planche. Gravure originale réalisée pour l'illustrat

Librairie Feu Follet · Paris, FR92,00 €

(BEER Gustave) SIMEON FernandMareMagnum

Chloé. Robe du soir, de Beer (pl.62, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1921 n°8)

- Lucien Vogel éditeur, Paris 1921, 18x24cm, une feuille. - Original color print, printed on vergé paper, signed in the plate. An original print used to illustrate the Gazette du bon ton, one of the most attractive and influential 20th century fashion magazines, featuring the talents of French artists and other contributors from the burgeoning Art Deco movement. A celebrated fashion magazine established in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton appeared until 1925, with a hiatus from 1915 to 1920 due to the war (the editor-in-chief having been called up for service). It consisted of 69 issues printed in only 2,000 copies each and notably illustrated with 573 color plates and 148 sketches of the models of the great designers. Right from the start, this sumptuous publication "was aimed at bibliophiles and fashionable society," (Françoise Tétart-Vittu, "La Gazette du bon ton", in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016) and was printed on fine vergé paper using a type cut specially for the magazine by Georges Peignot, known as Cochin, later used (in 1946) by Christian Dior. The prints were made using stencils, heightened in colors, some highlighted in gold or palladium. The story began in 1912, when Lucien Vogel, a man of the world involved in fashion (he had already been part of the fashion magazine Femina) decided, with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff - the sister of Jean, creator of Babar - to set up the Gazette du bon ton, subtitled at the time: "Art, fashion, frivolities." Georges Charensol noted the reasoning of the editor-in-chief: "'In 1910,' he observed, 'there was no really artistic fashion magazine, nothing representative of the spirit of the time. My dream was therefore to make a luxury magazine with truly modern artists...I was assured of success, because when it comes to fashion, no country on earth can compete with France.'" ("Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel" in Les Nouvelles littéraires, no. 133, May 1925). The magazine was immediately successful, not only in France but also in the United States and Latin America. At first, Vogel put together a team of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt, as well as eventually his friends from school and the School of Fine Arts, like George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Charles Martin. Other talented people soon came flocking to join the team: Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Chalres Martin, Maggie Salcedo. These artist, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel sought them out, later became emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. It was also they who worked on the advertising drawings for the Gazette. The plates put the spotlight on, and celebrate, dresses by seven designers of the age: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The designers provided exclusive models for each issue. Nonetheless, some of the illustrations are not based on real models, but simply on the illustrator's conception of the fashion of the day. The Gazette du bon ton was an important step in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic demands with the physical whole, it brought together - for the first time - the great talents of the artistic, literary, and fashion worlds; and imposed, through this alchemy, a completely new image of women: slender, independent and daring, which was shared by the new generation of designers, including Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas, and so on... Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, the Gazette du bon ton was an important influence on the new layout and aesthetics of that "little dying paper" that Nast had bought a few years earlier: Vogue. [FRENCH VERSION FOLLOWS] Estampe originale en couleur, tirée sur papier vergé, signée en bas à droite de la planche. La Gazette du bon ton, l'une des plus belle

Librairie Feu Follet · Paris, FR92,00 €

BOUTET DE MONVEL MauriceMareMagnum

Claude et sa soeur. Pelisse et Douillette (pl.10, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1912-1913 n°2)

- Lucien Vogel éditeur, Paris 1912-1913, 19x24,5cm, une feuille. - Original color print, printed on vergé paper, signed in the plate. An original print used to illustrate the Gazette du bon ton, one of the most attractive and influential 20th century fashion magazines, featuring the talents of French artists and other contributors from the burgeoning Art Deco movement. A celebrated fashion magazine established in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton appeared until 1925, with a hiatus from 1915 to 1920 due to the war (the editor-in-chief having been called up for service). It consisted of 69 issues printed in only 2,000 copies each and notably illustrated with 573 color plates and 148 sketches of the models of the great designers. Right from the start, this sumptuous publication "was aimed at bibliophiles and fashionable society," (Françoise Tétart-Vittu, "La Gazette du bon ton", in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016) and was printed on fine vergé paper using a type cut specially for the magazine by Georges Peignot, known as Cochin, later used (in 1946) by Christian Dior. The prints were made using stencils, heightened in colors, some highlighted in gold or palladium. The story began in 1912, when Lucien Vogel, a man of the world involved in fashion (he had already been part of the fashion magazine Femina) decided, with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff - the sister of Jean, creator of Babar - to set up the Gazette du bon ton, subtitled at the time: "Art, fashion, frivolities." Georges Charensol noted the reasoning of the editor-in-chief: "'In 1910,' he observed, 'there was no really artistic fashion magazine, nothing representative of the spirit of the time. My dream was therefore to make a luxury magazine with truly modern artists...I was assured of success, because when it comes to fashion, no country on earth can compete with France.'" ("Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel" in Les Nouvelles littéraires, no. 133, May 1925). The magazine was immediately successful, not only in France but also in the United States and Latin America. At first, Vogel put together a team of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt, as well as eventually his friends from school and the School of Fine Arts, like George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Charles Martin. Other talented people soon came flocking to join the team: Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Chalres Martin, Maggie Salcedo. These artist, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel sought them out, later became emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. It was also they who worked on the advertising drawings for the Gazette. The plates put the spotlight on, and celebrate, dresses by seven designers of the age: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The designers provided exclusive models for each issue. Nonetheless, some of the illustrations are not based on real models, but simply on the illustrator's conception of the fashion of the day. The Gazette du bon ton was an important step in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic demands with the physical whole, it brought together - for the first time - the great talents of the artistic, literary, and fashion worlds; and imposed, through this alchemy, a completely new image of women: slender, independent and daring, which was shared by the new generation of designers, including Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas, and so on... Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, the Gazette du bon ton was an important influence on the new layout and aesthetics of that "little dying paper" that Nast had bought a few years earlier: Vogue. [FRENCH VERSION FOLLOWS] Estampe originale en couleur, tirée sur papier vergé et signée en bas à gauche dans la planche. Gravure originale réalisée pour

Librairie Feu Follet · Paris, FR81,00 €

[Klimt, Gustav] - Geyling, Remigius, painter and stage designer (1878-1974).MareMagnum

Collection of 23 portrait drawings and caricatures, all drawn "from life" and signed, dated, and titled by Geyling (often citing the place of the sitting). Includes two T.L.S. by Arthur Schnitzler. Vienna, 1897-1935.

Royal folio. In later years mounted onto uniform backing boards by Geyling himself and laid into two simple portfolios, both of which contain his autogr. table of portraits. All leaves numbered throughout by the artist (1-24; Schnitzler's letters on their own backing are no. 23) and captioned with the name and dates of the person portrayed. The earliest portrait dates from 1897, the year in which the Vienna Secession and the artistic periodical "Ver Sacrum" were founded. According to his inscription, it was for the latter that Geyling drew the present portrait of the Secessionist sculptor Rudolf Bacher. Many of the pictures collected in these two portfolios were created several years later, in 1905, during the heyday of the Wiener Werkstätte (for which Geyling designed postcards) and a year after Geyling and his partner Otto Prutscher closed their joint studio for furnishings and décor. "Although a member of the conservative 'Künstlerhaus', Geyling always was close to the Vienna Secession" (cf. AKL LII, 462). For Geyling, "Klimt, Hoffmann, Roller, Olbrich were not only my colleagues, but also my friends, and many a night did we debate about the 'new and pure art'" (cf. Remigius Geyling erzählt, aufgezeichnet von Gerald Szyszkowitz. In: Nebehay/Krug, pp. 5-8, here: p. 7). These nights apparently offered numerous opportunities for Geyling's portrait studies: apart from the portraits of the aforesaid, the present collection contains a picture of the frequent Tivoli patron Egon Schiele (from the year of his death) as well as a portrait of Adolf Loos, drawn in the famous Café Museum. It was probably here where also Karl Kraus (entitled "Fackl-Kraus" by the artist) sat for Geyling. The great painter enjoyed an especially close relationship to Gustav Klimt: for many years he belonged to the circle of those who shared breakfast with Klimt at the Tivoli (cf. Nebehay/Krug, p. 3). In that legendary restaurant at the Green Hill in Vienna's Meidling district, he drew the two portraits of Klimt in May 1905. Together with Peter Altenberg and Otto Wagner, Klimt is one of the few persons whom Geyling sketched in more than one portrait only (all on a single page). It was upon Klimt's recommendation that Geyling was hired as head of decorations at the "Neue Wiener Bühnen" in 1910; his first production was the premiere of Schnitzler's "Undiscovered Country". It was during the rehearsals for this production, on 14 October 1911, that Geyling produced the present portrait of Schnitzler. Schnitzler's two letters to Geyling concern their joint project of a "Medardus movie". Geyling had worked as decorator for the most important Austrian film productions. So successfully had he transferred the stylistic devices of the Wiener Werkstätte into historical tragedy that in 1924 Fritz Lang used Geyling's designs for his great silent "Nibelungen" series (cf. AKL LII, 462). - Provenance: From a Viennese private collection, to which the artist himself sold both portfolios. Nos. 6-8 and 18, 21 and 22 are each illustrated in full-page size in: Ch. M. Nebehay & H. Krug (eds.). Remigius Geyling. Künstler und Literaten. Gezeichnet in Wien um 1900. Wien 1974. (= Jahresgabe der Wiener Bibliophilengesellschaft). This work does not describe the present collection; all other drawings are unpublished.

Inlibris · Wien, AT45 000,00 €

[Mary Magdalene].MareMagnum

Coloured and "dressed" devotional print of Mary Magdalene. Probably France, mid-18th century.

255 x 180 mm. Copperprint engraving, cut, hand-coloured and dressed with several fabric fragments, some with metallic threads, metallic lace details, and ground glass. Stitched at an early date to a ruled paper mount. Later giltwood frame and glazing with framer’s label ("Collard Doreur sur bois. Versailles’", ca. 1830-40). Striking and well-preserved example of a so-called "dressed print", based on a devotional engraving of Mary Magdalene by the German engraver and publisher Martin Engelbrecht (1684-1756), dating to the mid-18th century. The materials and style of the adornments point to the 18th century, though a later reuse of older fabrics cannot be ruled out. As often, the dressing has been ingeniously applied both under and over the surface of the original engraving. The penitent Mary Magdalene has been modified by being pasted onto glazed paper, producing a dramatic black-sky background, her body is embellished with three different brocade fabrics (two with metallic threads), and the print was further enhanced with hand-colouring, some metallic lace and ground glass. The saint is characterized by her traditional attributes of a cross, a book, a myrrh jar, a straw mat, and a skull, while her left foot rests on a globe or orb. The precious clothes that were added to Mary Magdalene, who is usually just covered by her long open hair as an expression of her ascetism and atonement, almost transforms her into a celestial Mary, thus altering the meaning of the engraving. - The fashion for dressing prints existed probably from the beginning of printed illustrations themselves, though it was a widespread, predominantly female recreation, especially in nunneries and convents, during the 17th and 18th centuries. Dressed prints were often overlooked by art historians and, due to their fragile nature, are rarely preserved in such good condition.

Inlibris · Wien, AT2 800,00 €

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