Schumann

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AN den Ufern des Rheins. Vom Bodensee bis zu den Niederlanden. Hg.: G. Wolf, Clare, Graf u.a.

[FASHION -- TEXTILES]. [SCHUMANN, Maria (Artist & Designer); WINKLER, August].Biblio.com

Fall fashion design factory sample catalogue with designs by . . . Drawn and handcoloured by Maria Schumann.

193963709Aussig Usti Nad Labem Czechoslovakia & Vienna: C. Wolfrum ca. 1939. Folio. 50 leaves. 1 leaf with type-written explanation of all the fashions illustrated in the catalogue. 44 hand-coloured pochoir fashion designs on translucent paper each with item number printed below 5 leaves with printed designs showing the backs of all the fashions some pencil shading and details added. Original textured beige softcovers embossed WMI Wolfrum Manufacturing on front cover metal spiral bound as issued some dustsoiling & wear to fore-edges of covers very slight bumping to couple corners still a VG copy w/ beautifully illustrated fashion designs. First edition of this exceedingly scarce original trade catalogue issued by the C. Wolfrum textile firm in Czechoslovakia for its Vienna Austria market around the time of the forced annexation of the Sudetenland by Nazi Germany in 1939. The firm was famed for its woolen & silk textiles for women’s fashions and their catalogues were very desired. This catalogue includes fashions for silk rayon & wool women’s dress suits leisure suits formal evening dresses & winter coats all evoking the fashion trends of the period. The designs in the catalogue reflect the rising influence of militaristic styles and fascism with square-edged shoulder pads the plate hats as well as the emphasis on tight waists and long skirts. There are a couple designs with distinctive chocolate brown for leisure wear reflecting the heavy Nazi-influenced fashion design of the period. In addition the slim lines were enhanced by cutting clothes across the fabric avoiding bunches of gathers at the waist for full skirts allowing material to flow. In addition the evening wear dresses emphasized low or no backs and hair was to be grown long and worn swept up. This catalogue also includes a few evening formal dress designs clearly inspired by the dresses worn by Vivien Leigh in the 1939 Gone With the Wind Movie with the puffed sleeves polk-a-dot patterns and fabrics. No copies in Worldcat. C. Wolfrum, paperback

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis750,00 $US≈ 634,57 €

[JAZZ AGE TEXTILES -- WEAVING BOOKS]. SCHUMANN, Otto F[ranz].Biblio.com

Philadelphia Textile School manuscript textile sample books filled with weave formation plates textile samples drawings.

192554342Philadelphia PA: Otto F. Schumann Philadelphia Textile School ca. 1925. Small 4to. 8.25 x 9.2 in. 75 leaves unnumbered including 32 leaves with detailed colour charts on weave formations producing various kinds of cloth 3 tipped-in textile samples together w/ weaving instructions in manuscript. Original limp leather 3-ring binder gilt lettering stamped on front cover ink lettering & association of Otto F. Schumann on front cover some soiling dustsoiling edgewear still VG exemplar. This Jazz Age weaving manuscript notebook complete with weave formation design plates fabric samples and instructions offer a remarkable and invaluable artifact of how a young American textile designer and weaver received training at the famed Philadelphia Textile School now Philadelphia University during the 1920s. These course books were judged on completeness and the aspiring weaver’s skill in presenting the details about the instruction as well as their abilities in running the machinery required to produce the cloth. This manuscript notebook includes Schumann’s detailed plates and notes on producing color effect on the plain weave creating Broken Twills Crowfoot Satins Checked & Figured Broken Twills Entwining Twills Basket Weaves and Broken Satins. The extensive manuscript notes detail the loom instructions how many lines are required composition and more in producing the assorted effects. Because of the poor quality of United States textiles exhibited at the Centennial Exhibition in 1876 the Philadelphia Textile Manufacturers pushed for a formalized vocational school to train weavers designers and textile workers. In 1884 it became part of the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art with 81 students enrolled by 1885 and by 1894 the School of Textiles added a Department of Wool Carding & Spinning and a Department of Cloth Finishing and Design. By the 1920s the Philadelphia Textile School was offering extensive three-year textile courses chemistry and dyeing courses as well as design courses in cottons woolens worsteds silks Jacquard design and more. Schumann 1906-1967 was the son of Hugo Schumann founder and owner of the Maid Hosiery Mills in Reading PA through the opening decades of the 20th century for whom he worked with until after World War II as designer and sales executive. Otto F. Schumann, Philadelphia Textile School, hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis450,00 $US≈ 380,75 €