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191050389Baltimore MD: Federal Tailoring Co. Baltimore & Carey Streets ca. 1910. Tall 8vo. 6 x 11 in. 30 pp unpaginated on thick cream-coloured stock w/ 47 tipped-in worsted serge wool blend and felt samples all w/ printed black borders & stock numbers. Black embossed cloth gilt lettering on front cover lettering in blind on back cover blind-stamped ruling bound in accordion-style flexible binding w/ each leaf mounted on hinge occasional minor loss and slight insect predation to a few samples still a VG bright copy. First edition of this scarce Edwardian salesman sample catalogue for men’s suits trousers and wool winter jackets. Federal Tailoring Co. was a consortium of several Jewish-American tailoring wholesalers located across from the Drovers & Mechanics National Bank in Baltimore. The woolen samples contained within this catalogue were patterns intended for suits suits & trousers and winter coats of the Baltimore working class at the beginning of the 20th century with heavier weaves courser wool blends and more neutral colour palate focusing on dark blues tans browns some grays. No copies located in Worldcat. Federal Tailoring Co., Baltimore & Carey Streets, hardcover
195561063Los Angeles CA: K. Jo ca. 1955. Folio. 14 x 18 in. Original pen & ink w/ gouache colouring on studio board initials of artist at lower right corner edgewear & chipping to corners fore-edges still a VG- exemplar. This delightful artwork mock-up for a Vogue fashion advertising counter display featuring a stylish black chenille silk yarn cocktail dress with the model sporting a short haircut hoop earrings and white evening gloves. The same model is shown wearing a beret and chenille wool/rayon fabric evening coat double-breasted pinch waist and gloves. K. Jo the unidentified artist has left the banner blank which would have included in the printed version the day & time of either the fashion display or of the possible patterns. This cataloguer could find no information on the original artist and two possible references to cover art designs for Vogue in 1951 and 1953. K. Jo, unknown
1957796891957. FASHION READY REFERENCE FUR INDUSTRY TELEPHONE DIRECTORY VOLUME NO. 33 MAY 1957. New York: Ready Reference Publishing Company Inc. 1957. 569 pp. 4to. flexible green cloth covers with gilt lettering alphabetical thumb-tabbed index at fore-edge. Spine slightly rolled corners bumped. Light rubbing to covers and pictorial endpapers advertising. Very good overall. Metropolitan New York business to business directory. B/w illustrations ads throughout: models machinery fifties graphics. unknown
1998BN206390ASSOULINE 1998. 1998. Hardcover. Paco Rabanne <br/><br/>Paco Rabanne Lydia Kamitsis Text; Paco Rabanne Mode ASSOULINE hardcover
195014631AB1950. Vienna ca. 1950. 42 : 30 cm. 27 plates with many designs partly in colour. Shows also designs for smaller tallor and dicker woman. 2 plates with many designs for evening dresses. unknown
193411072AB1934. London Paris Vienna 1934. 335 : 225 cm. 4 pages with description With 20 mounted coloured plates. Typographic printed original wrappers. Overview of the winter fashion collection for 1934. Each design in vivid colours shows the model in the center and on the side there are some detailled views of the dress. With a description of each model in French English and German. - Here present are 20 out of 39 plates; upper parts of the plates with water-stains but not effecting the image; wrappers with some defects. unknown
19872111902160305902atre fashion 1987. Soft Cover. Fine. Number of pages: 152 sheets Size: Large book 39cm x 27.5cm Number of books: 150 complete set atre fashion paperback
192262342New York: Edward J. Clode 1922. 12 vols. 12mo. 1184 pp all vols. separately paginated. With 100’s of text illustrations diagrams patterns. Brown cloth-backed cream-coloured softcovers illustrated in brown & brown lettering very slight shelfwear slight soiling to fore-edges still a NF set preserved in the original open case. First edition 2nd printing of this informative and well-illustrated set issued by Woman’s Home Companion intended as a Jazz Age “how-to†instructional sewing and tailoring course to properly instruct young aspiring fashion designers seamstresses and at home housewives how to craft the current Flapper-era fashions. These well-organized volumes include sections on selecting the proper clothes and colours simple stitches making their garments attractive trimmings to add a little extra to underwear; different types of blouses lingerie blouses kimono blouses “Smart†clothes drop waist dresses and the key of pattern making. This course helped to propel the idea of “Flapper Design Fashion†and reflected many of her own innovative artistic and graciously elegant designs. Conover Stadtmiller 1891-1968 was a Los Angeles fashion designer associate fashion editor of Woman’s Home Companion and after marrying noted Kennicott Copper Co. mining engineer Karl Stadtmiller 1893-1934 retired from her career until after her husband’s sudden death. Worldcat locates 4 sets FIT-NY Indiana U MFA Boston Toronto Public. Edward J. Clode, paperback
195061482Tokyo Japan: Mikimoto ca. 1950. Oblong folio. 14.5 x 11.5 x 1.4 in. Original wooden shadow box sample display case holding 10 opened & cleaned pearl oyster shells on white padded fibers and 5 varying grades of cultured pearls showing progression of growth minor scuffing to corners of polished wood frame backed w/ birch plywood box a VG exemplar. Commercial cultured pearls were first developed by Kokichi Mikimoto who succeeded in creating semi-spherical cultured pearls in 1893 by developing the exacting method of inserting grains into pearl oysters and harvesting two years. later. The company exhibited at many International World’s Fairs in the succeeding years and following World War I gained a foothold in Europe during the Art Deco jewelry phase. Virulently opposed by European jewelers who attacked cultured pearls as imitations rather than real pearls Mikimoto would win the lawsuit at the “Paris Trial†and quickly established the custom of distributing trade literature explaining the pearl process as well as visual sample cases. Although the 1930’s saw the emergence of very good glass imitation pearls cultured pearls continued to be valued and in post-World War II America reached their heyday with elegance and femininity favored with designs inspired by Grace Kelly and later Jackie Kennedy of single strands of pearls and pearl studs. These sample boxes continued to remind customers that the pearls were actually cultivated and harvested from oysters. See: Mikimoto Brand Story Our Founder Kokichi Mikimoto 2024; Amber Michelle A History of Cultured Pearls IAJA 2022. Mikimoto?, unknown
193456170Omaha NE: Northwestern Fur Company ca. 1934. Two vols. 4to. 15 1; 16 pp unpaginated. with numerous photo and text illustrations diagrams. Self-printed illustrated softcovers both with cover art of stylish young women wearing furs including one in front of an Art Deco screen both with centerfold creases as issued minor shelfwear rubbing still VG set retaining original mailing envelope addressed to A.lbert H.enry McConnell 1861-1939 Payette Valley Silver Fox Farm Fruitland ID formerly of Gunnison CO set up his fruit orchards ranching business and other opportunities in Idaho. First editions of these very rare fur fashion and furrier supply catalogues issued by the Northwestern Fur Co. of Omaha NE including in the first catalogue furs for sale such as chokers scarfs muskrat Northern Seal Hudson Seal Caracul Siberian Squirrel and others. Also included are listings for furriers’ tools and equipment taxidermy work fasteners and more while the second catalogue promotes the complete furrier course offered by the company. Elwood 1875-1947 with two partners Paul F. Greve and R.H. Smith incorporated the Northwestern Fur Company school of taxidermy and the Northwestern Fur Company furs mail order in 1903 and quickly expanded for the succeeding decades. Elwood had previously taught and been director at a trade school in Iowa before moving to Omaha NE and continued as the public face of the mail order company for decades eventually closing down in the 1980s. No copies located in Worldcat; See: Northwestern School of Taxidermy Northwestern Fur Company Nebraska State Historical Society Manuscript Finding Aid RG5451.AM. Northwestern Fur Company, paperback
193058140Paris Vienna New York et al: Societe Graphique S.A. Editions de Mode Classique Modes Co. Importers of Fashions 303 Fifth Ave. ca. 1930. Folio. 9 x 13 in. IV pp. leaves as V-XX hand-coloured pochoir plates 2 pp. pattern cutting plates. Quarter-embossed gold foil over pink printed softcovers gilt & black decorative lettering minor shelfwear slight bumping to corners rubbing still a VG copy. First edition of this beautifully coloured collection of haute couture Parisian fashion dress designs by Lucien LeLong 1889-1958. Lelong was a contemporary designer alongside Chanel Vionnet Molyneux Lanvin & Patou focusing on designing for cafe society during the 1920’s and 1930’s. These designs emphasize Lelong Schiaparelli and Vionnet’s move towards a more sophisticated and elegant feminine silhouette during the 1930’s with hemlines dropped to mid-calf or close to the ankle soft slim-fitting dresses and backless evening gowns. Classique Modes also distributed other similar pochoir-illustrated fashion design periodicals such as Paris Chic Elite Robes elegantes Iris and others. The final 2 plates No copies in Worldcat. Societe Graphique S.A., Editions de Mode, Classique Modes Co., Importers of Fashions, 303 Fifth Ave., paperback
194657486New York: Lord & Taylor 1946. Tall 8vo. 3 101 4 pp. Double-page frontispiece white crepe-paper Christmas Tree pop-up by The Beistle Co. Illustrated throughout most in black & white 10 colour plates some photographic others a mixed-media effect. Colour-illustrated softcovers wraparound cover art minor shelfwear edgewear at corners light rippling to gutter margin of first couple leaves still a VG copy. First edition of this fashionable post-World War II catalogue celebrating 101 stylish gifts for men women & children following the easing of Wartime restrictions. The impressionistic illustrations were created by the in-house Lord & Taylor artists who were some of the most influential designers during the 1940’s and 1950’s including Dorothy Hood Helen Hall Arnold Hall Jean Karnoff Susan Abbott Betty Offt and Carl Wilson. Many of the 101 items drip with a glamour desired and reflected in post-War film and popular culture and a distinct emphasis on femininity with such items as the “Ermine hug-me-tight†stole Hand-made silk lingerie with French Alencon lace Koret dinner bag the Harem lounging costume by Joseph Whitehead Gloves that go up and up and more. Worldcat locates 1 copy Penn State; See: Keren Ben-Horin July Treasure of the Month: Frances Neady Collection On Pins and Needles July 25 2012. Lord & Taylor, paperback
190060928Porland OR: Lipman Wolfe & Co. 1900. 16mo. 32 pp unpaginated. w/ photo illustrations throughout. Colour-illustrated softcovers view of the goddess Minerva holding broken sword city of Paris stretching into the background and medals which originally honored Czar Nicholas for the disarmament conference of 1898 now changed to the United States Seal w/ original mailing envelope post-marked 1¢ Franklin stamp NF/NF copy from the library of Caroline Augusta Gray Kamm 1840-1932 noted socialite and philanthropist in Portland built home for poor women & girls with the YWCA and was daughter of PNW pioneer William H. Gray 1810-1889 who traveled to the Lapwai Mission in Lewiston ID in 1836 where he was the Nez Perce secular agent and subsequently later married Jacob Kamm 1823-1912 pioneering Oregon industrialist and entrepreneur. First edition of this beautiful belle epoque 19th-Century fashion catalogue issued by the historic Lipman Wolfe & Co. department store in Portland OR featuring elaborate large-rimmed hats with extensive trimmings featuring fashions created by such women designers as Madam Michniwicz-Tuvee Esther Meyer Camille Roger perhaps best remembered later for her Art Deco Suffrage hats the Guillard sisters and others. The famed Lipman Wolfe & Co. department store was founded in 1880 by Adolphe Wolfe who teamed up with his uncle Solomon Lipman and at the time still maintained their original Dekum Building at 3rd Street and were the first to introduce customer elevators to their many floors. No copies in Worldcat. Lipman, Wolfe & Co., paperback
191662798New York: The Leading Pattern Co. 1916. Two parts in one vol. Small folio. 9.75 x 12.5 in. 2 28; 251-341 1 pp. Engraved & illustrated title vignettes text illustrations diagrams photos throughout including engraved signed certificate of completion. Original pebbled green cloth “Spring Binder†w/ gilt stamping & ruling on spine labels on endpapers minor tear to spine scuffing still VG copy from the library of Rose M. Cervini Savarese 1891-1965 w/ certificate signed by Rosenfeld. First edition of this exceedingly scarce and well-illustrated installment in Rosenfeld’s self-instruction dressmaking course available in 14 parts in 3 vols. where students could choose their particular course installment. This well-organized volume details the grading special garment cutting sketching tailoring dressmaking and fitting for dressmakers at the end of the Progressive Era. Rosenfeld b. 1883 was an Austro-Hungarian-American Jewish tailor and dress designer who before World War I had established not only his education courses but also oversaw his own design house and dressmaking operation in Brooklyn New York. The Leading Pattern Co. allowed him to not only train his current employees but recruit further. Worldcat locates 6 copies -- most incomplete or just mircofiche as well as incorrect dates for Rosenfeld FIT NY 10 vols St. Louis Pub. incomplete U of Chicago 13 vols. Northern Illinois LACMA DLC Thomas Jefferson Univ. The Leading Pattern Co., hardcover
1886016038London: T.H. Holding 3 Adelaide Street W.C. 1886 Book. Good. Hardcover. 1st Edition. 1886 Rare First Edition Hardcover Needs Rebinding 62pp 20 Plates Illustrated throughout with diagrams and drafting tables with advertisements at the rear NOTES ON CONDITION The front cover is worn scuffed and illegible - needs rebinding The contents are clean and complete The first appearance of Holding's tailoring manual offering detailed systems for cutting men's trousers vests breeches and gaiters to any measurement. Issued as part of his series of professional guides for cutters and tailoring schools this edition reflects the late-Victorian drive to standardize pattern drafting. Scarce; and of interest both to textile historians and collectors of tailoring manuals. T.H. Holding, 3, Adelaide Street, W.C. hardcover
200253ac9903U.K.: Aurum Press 2002. Book. Very Good. Paperback. First Edition. Folio - over 12" - 15" tall. 128 pages. Gorgeous colour photography throughout including many shots of vintage pieces of denim apparel - with their tags still affixed! "A history and celebration of all aspects of denim. Delves deep into the archives to explain the origins and development of blue jeans exploding many myths in the process. Features previously unseen pictures of denim-clad icons such as Robert Mitchum Eddie Cochran and Jackson Pollock plus specially commissioned photography of rare and classic garments from the 1880s to the present day. It concludes with a glossary teaching you to tell your arcuate from your cinch and helping you to spot original valuable examples of vintage jeans." - from front flap. Clean and unmarked with light wear. A quality copy. Guaranteed to thrill any denim lover!. Aurum Press Paperback
1913218820London: Sampson Low Marston & Company Ldt 1913. First edition. 155 colored plates several in black and white which are printed on both sides. 1 vols. 4to. Green morocco-backed boards. Very good. First edition. 155 colored plates several in black and white which are printed on both sides. 1 vols. 4to. An excellent survey of French and English mode of dress between 1786 and 1912. Colas 2426; Hiler & Hiller p. 722 placing date as 1912 Sampson Low, Marston & Company Ldt unknown
195025924n.p. 1950. Sold individually. Please inquire for images of each. Approximately 11 x 10 inches. Sold individually. Please inquire for images of each. Approximately 11 x 10 inches. Reynaldo Luza 1893-1978 pre-eminent fashion artist was born in Lima Peru. He began training as an architect at the University of Louvain Belgium but returned to Peru at the outbreak of World War I where he changed his studies from architecture to art. In 1918 he came to the United States where he earned his living by contributing drawings to several fashion publications principally VOGUE HARPERS BAZAAR and VANITY FAIR. In 1921 he joined HARPERS BAZAAR as the principal fashion artist a position he was to hold for 27 years. He divided his time between New York Paris and London working closely with all of the leading fashion designers of the times--Poiret Patou Lelong Paquin Douillet Doucet Cheruit Worth Drecoll Callot Soeurs Redfern Martial et Amand Premet Reboux Chanel Vionnet Molyneaux Schiaparelli Hartnell Steibel and Balenciaga among others.<br /> <br /> In 1940 Luza made New York his principal base where over the next few years he continued his activities at Harpers as well as creating fabric and furniture designs and the costumes for the movie "The Bridge of San Luis Rey". Among other distinctions he received several honorary appointments from the government of Peru including that of Artistic Director of the Paris Exposition of 1938 and the New York World's Fair of 1939-40; he also did the interior design of the new Lima airport.<br /> <br /> In 1950 Luza returned to Peru where he began a second career as a portrait painter exhibiting his work over the next few years in Paris New York and Washington D.C. unknown
1950245213n.p. 1950. 1 vols. Image approximately 6 x 4-1/2 inches matted to 12 x 10-1/2 inches. Creased across upper left corner light spotting. 1 vols. Image approximately 6 x 4-1/2 inches matted to 12 x 10-1/2 inches. Reynaldo Luza 1893-1978 pre-eminent fashion artist was born in Lima Peru. He began training as an architect at the University of Louvain Belgium but returned to Peru at the outbreak of World War I where he changed his studies from architecture to art. In 1918 he came to the United States where he earned his living by contributing drawings to several fashion publications principally VOGUE HARPERS BAZAAR and VANITY FAIR. In 1921 he joined HARPERS BAZAAR as the principal fashion artist a position he was to hold for 27 years. He divided his time between New York Paris and London working closely with all of the leading fashion designers of the times--Poiret Patou Lelong Paquin Douillet Doucet Cheruit Worth Drecoll Callot Soeurs Redfern Martial et Amand Premet Reboux Chanel Vionnet Molyneaux Schiaparelli Hartnell Steibel and Balenciaga among others. In 1940 Luza made New York his principal base where over the next few years he continued his activities at Harpers as well as creating fabric and furniture designs and the costumes for the movie "The Bridge of San Luis Rey". Among other distinctions he received several honorary appointments from the government of Peru including that of Artistic Director of the Paris Exposition of 1938 and the New York World's Fair of 1939-40; he also did the interior design of the new Lima airport. In 1950 Luza returned to Peru where he began a second career as a portrait painter exhibiting his work over the next few years in Paris New York and Washington D.C. unknown
194056298Vienna Germany & Paris: La Mode Artistique S.A. 4 Rue mayran 1940. Folio. 10.75 x 14.6 in. 4 pp. With 28 colour fashion plates text printed in French English & German. Textured beige softcovers raised & embossed gilt lettering front cover black lettering for La Mode Artistique minor chipping head & foot of spine edgewear some scuffing still a VG copy w/ the fashion plates in bright condition. First edition of this very scarce and beautifully printed fashion design magazine issued in the opening years of World War II following the occupation of Paris in the summer of 1940 originally owned by Leon Claude. The firm had also published fashion publications such as Paris Chic La Coquette and Le Gout Parisien. These fashion designs show the growing restraint and conservatism of Nazi Germany and reflecting the desire by Adolf Hitler to extinguish French influence in European fashion. The designs here include most in 3/4 length with some sporting shapes and belted jackets as well as fancy wraps made from seal kid-astrakhan Buenos broadtail lamb beaver otter nutria ocelot Persian lamb musk mink fox and others. The collars are trimmer and the linings are often chosen to complement and match the dresses worn by the models. These 1940s fashions still show the dramatic drop in hem lengths feathered hats worn by Germans & Austrians and designs which inspired the Hollywood glamor look of the era popularized by Greta Garbo Joan Crawford Carole Lombard and others. These fashion designs were issued only to subscribing specialty shops boutiques and fashion enthusiasts at the time with eight different issues on assorted subjects appearing annually. No copies of this issue located in Worldcat. La Mode Artistique, S.A., 4, Rue mayran, paperback
196961745Portland & Pendleton OR: Pendleton Woolen Mills Feb. 1969. 4to. 9 x 11.25 in. 176 pp sections all separately paginated. on tinted paper illustrations throughout tan coloured printed section dividers thumb tabs at fore-edges. Colour-illustrated softcover post-binder screw at gutter margin 3-ring hole punched as issued minor creasing edgewear minor edgewear to thumb-tabs still a VG copy. First edition thus of this exceedingly scarce wholesaler jobber price list illustrating and presenting Pendleton Woolen Mills Mid-20th-Century fashions for men’s Shirts Light Jackets Robes Accessories Slacks Jackets Outerwear Outdoor Wear Boyswear Sweaters and Knit Shirts. In the 1960’s Pendleton was well-known for their Sir Pendleton shirt line-up of flannels for men including the Board Shirt used at the time by California surfers over a layer of petroleum jelly as an improvised wetsuit in the early days of the surf scene. The Pendletones rock band actually adopted their name in honor of the surf uniform of Pendleton shirts worn over t-shirts with khakis and later changed their name to the Beach Boys featuring Brian Dennis & Carl Wilson Mike Love and Al Jardine. The Worsted Yarns used in Pendleton men’s fashions at the time were tightly twisted and gave them a resilient luster. The company has even recently revived in 2024 the classic Board Shirt first seen in the plaids of the late 1960’s. No copies in Worldcat; See: Iconic Styles Pendleton Woven Issue No. 7 2024. Pendleton Woolen Mills, paperback
74231E-218. Hardcover. Very Good. Leather. Folio. Revue fondée par Abel Goubaud Paris France. 1888. 424 pgs. 1 bound volume consisting the full year of 1888. Illustrated throughout with in text drawings with black and white engravings depicting fabrics patterns models lace. Bound in 1/2 red leather and marble paper covered cloth boards with titles and raised bands present to the spine. Boards have shelf-wear present to the extremities. No ownership marks present. Text is clean and free of marks. Binding tight and solid. EB; 8vo 8" - 9" tall . hardcover
193747549Praha Prague: Karl Berner 1937. First edition. Paperback. Very good. Very slim quarto 31 cm Original beige and orange printed wraps bound with two rivets. Eighteen leaves with color lithograph fashion illustrations on every leaf. With rippling and a general layer of mild soiling on the wraps. Some occasional thumbing and barely perceptible tidemarks on the pages. One minor pencil notation. A first edition of this original trade catalogue issued by Karel Berner in Czechoslovakia and featuring the "Chic Parisien" line created by Vlasta an in-house designer. The designs in this catalogue highlight the growing influence of militaristic styles such as square-edged shoulder pads plate hats and an emphasis on tight waists and long skits. Karl Berner paperback