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182787629Paris: chez l'éditeur boulevard Montmartre no 1Vassalet EsslingImprimeurs 1827. Fine. Princess Murat's copy chez l'éditeur boulevard Montmartre no 1 Vassal et EsslingImprimeurs Paris 1801-1827 ; 1827 pour le texte 41.20 x 27.80 cm relié Complete set of 115 copper-engraved plates with an additional plate 116 plates all printed on either laid or wove paper all hand-colored with watercolor. Two entirely different plates 39 follow each other in first issue: ""Les Titus et les cache-folies"" was published in the 1817 and 1822 sets and the other ""La Politicomanie"" appeared in 1827. This is the most complete series which also includes the 11 new plates published from 1818 to 1822 numbered 105 to 115. According to Vicaire the plates were probably all printed between 1801 and 1822 and only the text preceding the plates was reprinted in 1827. 3/4 long-grained cherry half-morocco smooth spine elaborately framed in gilt lentghwise gilt tooled center of spine gilt lettered title at head of spine framed in gilt marbled boards marbled paper endpapers and flyleaves. Minor brown spots are mainly confined to the 24 pp. of text with very few on the plates mainly on the margins and versos. A rare and famous collection of costumes genre and entertainment scenes from the French First Empire and Restoration eras with very wide margins and magnificently hand-colored at the time. A veritable encyclopedia of thrills pleasures and pageantry published by Pierre de la Mésangère leading fashion editor at the turn of the century. This copy includes two versions of plate 39 both of which are extremely scarce. These magnificent copper-engraved prints by Georges Jacques Gatine Schenker and others were based on drawings by the greatest painters of Parisian fashion: Carle Vernet Philippe-Louis Debucourt Jean-Baptiste Isabey Louis-Marie Lanté Dutailly. They were initially sold as a supplement to the successful magazine Le Journal des Modes before being published as a collection. Some plates bear the engraver's name and several the draftsmen's. This gallery of figures is singularly representative of a period of upheaval in French history in terms material but also moral and intellectual values - depicting a frivolous and daring part of feminine society eager to please and well-versed in the games of love. The ensemble perfectly combines social satire with the refinement expected of fashion engravings. It includes the famous portraits of the extravagantly dressed Directoire women called ""Merveilleuses"" and ""Incroyables"" - representations that have henceforth served as a reference. From beautiful silhouettes reclining on Greek-style beds to provocative and undressed courtesans everything is designed to illustrate the finery of these pretty coquettes often followed by a host of suitors and servants. Dresses hats and furs rub shoulders with elegant male figures in frock coats and even a few transvestites Trois grâces parisiennes no. 16. Many of the scenes have a clear erotic connotation especially the salon games featuring suggestive embraces and positions. Dancing takes pride of place: no fewer than twenty plates feature fashionable ballroom dances ""Danse du Schall"" named after the popular scarf quadrille figures such as ""La Poule"" ""La Trénis"" or more daring ones like ""La Sauteuse"" ballets or even the famous tightrope dancers Ravel and Forioso. The movement of the characters is reflected in the drapery of the large Empire muslin gowns and hair flowing in the wind. Among the dozens of hand-colored plates a great many are devoted to leisure and entertainment activities available at the beginning of the 19th century. Gastronomy games of skill sports acrobatics circus tricks music and even real sensational attractions: several plates depict the very first Parisian roller coaster installed in Belleville then at the Odeon for the 1817 Carnival. Clowns pierrots and masked figures are seen dancing in front of the structures and hurtling down steep slopes on small carriages. Anothe chez l'éditeur, boulevard Montmartre, no 1Vassalet EsslingImprimeurs hardcover
05714Paris: Chez l'Editeur 1827. The Rarely Seen Parisian Scene <br /> The Rise of the Post-Revolution French Middle Class<br /> Its Customs Costumes and Leisure Activities<br /> <br /> BON GENRE LE. Observations sur les Modes et les Usages de Paris pour Servir d'Explication aux 115 Caricatures Publiées Sous le Titre De Bon Genre Depuis le Commencement du Dix-Neuvième Siècle. Paris: Chez L'Éditeur Pierre de la Mésangère 1827. <br /> <br /> Third edition with eleven additional plates not found in the first edition of 1817. <br /> <br /> Large folio 14 7/8 x 10 7/8 in; 378 x 277 mm. 4 24 pp. of descriptive text 115 hand-colored plates. Engraved by Georges-Jacques Gatine. Printed by Vassal et Essling. With a duplicate of plate no. 16 loosely inserted. Some light foxing which is mainly confined to the blank margins. <br /> <br /> Contemporary half crimson straight-grain morocco over marbled boards smooth spine elaborately tooled and lettered in gilt. Some light wear to top and bottom of spine. An excellent example of one of the rarest suites of fashion and caricature.<br /> <br /> OCLC/KVK note only four copies of this edition in library holdings worldwide no copies of the first edition and only two copies of the 1822 edition.<br /> <br /> One of the rarest suites of fashion and caricature featuring superbly colored plates. In addition to satirizing the extravagances of contemporary fashion and society the finely rendered illustrations portray a range of public entertainers-including the rope-dancing troupes of Forioso and Ravel a magic lantern show two performing dog acts Indian jugglers acrobats and four distinct aerial runways.<br /> <br /> Le Bon Genre was one of the earliest series of prints to record the social trends and leisure activities of contemporary Parisians. It is the most important fashion portfolio of its time documenting through its caricatures the rise of the modern city of Paris and the emerging middle-class bourgeois its fashions recreations and dating customs. It also has fun at visitors' expense particularly the English whose customs and fashions the French found incomprehensible and unfashionable; the years of hostility between France and England did nothing to improve relations and the French lost few opportunities to ridicule the British. Le Bon Genre's popularity influenced most of the later fashion illustrators and journals as well as the satirical albums so typical of mid-19th century France and remains a key record of French social history. Overall Le Bon Genre bears witness to the colorful post-Revolution period of Parisian society as it evolves into the early Republican era.<br /> <br /> Of particular interest is the descriptive text preceding the plates that details the content of each caricature. One is astonished and charmed by images of a trio enjoying a magic lantern show #31; three women rapturously eating sorbets #4; a trained and costumed dog act #35; a circus balancing act #91; a man who eats anything #93; a huge amusement park slide #97; and so many more enchanting engravings delicately and vividly hand-colored.<br /> <br /> "Le Bon Genre.was first published in 1817 and went through several editions. This is a record of English and French fashions since the beginning of the nineteenth century; the English fashions are more in the nature of caricatures to show how badly Englishwomen dress as compared with the Parisiennes" Vyvyan Holland Hand Coloured Fashion Plates 1770 to 1899 p. 51.<br /> <br /> "The 'Bon Genre's' first edition 104 plates appeared in 1817. The 1822 edition included eleven additional plates; a third edition was published in 1827. Its illustrations are lively and witty statements of the life of Paris since the beginning of XIXc. with a text of explanatory paragraphs rather than fashion plates" Millia Davenport The Book of Costume II p. 814.<br /> <br /> "Georges-Jacques Gatine was the leading costume engraver of his time. For many years he supplied plates for the Journal des dames. He engraved the 115 designs which make up Le bon genre a lively mélange caricaturing people and scenes of contemporary interest" Ray The Art of the French Illustrated Book p. 141.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Le Bon Genre's publisher and editor Pierre Joseph Antoine Le Bouc of Mésangère 1761-1830 better known by the name of Le Mésangère was a fascinating character whose eclectic career covered a very wide period from the French Revolution 1789 up to the Second Restoration 1815 -1830. First an eccleslastlc philosopher and writer then fashion journalist he was for more than thirty years editor-in-chief of Le Journal des Dames a periodical that had an enormous influence upon contemporary French standards of elegance and taste. Born in Anjou 1761 to a middle-class family Mésangère entered the order Congregation of the Brothers in 1784 and held the philosophie belles lettres Chair at the College de la Fleche. In hiding during the Terror 1793-1794 after Robesplerre's death July 28 1794 he began to be known as a writer for Parisian literary journals. He wrote Le Voyageur a Paris ou Tableau pittoresque et moral de cette capitale 1797 a book that gained a certain notoriety. In 1799 he became editor of Le Journal des Dames a magazine founded two years earlier. It reigned supreme amongst the women's magazines of the epoch. With engraver Gatine executing the designs Mésangère was the pre-eminent writer editor and publisher of works devoted to French women's fashion of his era.<br /> <br /> The contributing artists to Le Bon Genre included George Dutailly François Joseph Bosio Louis Marie Lante Horace Vernet and others but it is Mésangère the editor and publisher who guided them and Gatine the engraver who executed their designs who were and remain the stars here.<br /> <br /> Colas 2240. Vicaire I 839-842. Rahir 332. Davenport 2280A-2281. Paris: Chez l'Editeur, 1827 unknown
GF15110Dessin original à l'encre de chine sur calque signé - format 13,5 x 10,5 cm -
192015002Catalogue des tableaux, dessins, gravures exposés au Musée des Arts Décoratifs du 11 juin au 11 juillet 1920. Pakais du Louvre. Important catalogue avec de nombreuses photos. Broché Très bon Paris 1920 1 plaquette In-4°