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191148842Cincinnati OH: Goldman Beckman & Co. 1911. Elephant folio. 21 x 18 x 1.75 in. 50 pp unpaginated printed on thick card stock each mounted on linen hinge. 17 colour plates 1 page w/ colour-illustrated borders 8 black & white plates with 150 mounted textile samples in wool wool worsted blends some felt backed moleskin cashmere and more -- all samples clearly marked with prices and availability many with damage from insecty predation occasional soot soiling soiling to fore-edges many of the images with illustrations of models in period dress in backgrounds and around borders. Half-black cloth over green gilt lettering and embossing of Company logo on front cover illustrated endpapers with the different suit models on pastedowns occasional soot soiling foxing minor dustsoiling from fabric dust cloth covers renewed w/ original company logo & title mounted front cover still a G copy entirely complete with all samples present. First edition of this scarce salesman sample fashion catalogue for men’s suits in the Edwardian era prior to World War I. Goldman Beckman & Co. was owned by Louis Goldman 1850-1921 who had founded the firm in 1894 after decades in the wholesale suit tailoring business marketing to men & young men. The catalogues were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles men’s clubs and men’s stores which would have these catalogues on the sales floor in the Cincinnati area. This catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the Progressive Era. Many of the plates show elegantly dressed men and women in the park the flower show at the museum playing sports and even preparing to go on a canal boat. In addition there are a number of plates showing properly cut trousers and the available cuts special sections devoted to fancy cuffs and pockets fitted backs men’s hats formal wear and much more. No copies located in Worldcat. Goldman, Beckman & Co., hardcover
193057289Nottingham UK: Vida Mills Jones Stroud & Co. Ltd. ca. 1930. Thick 8vo. 26 pp unpaginated. on thick card stock w/ burgundy linen hinges at gutter margin w/ 113 rayon elastic nylon elastic rubber and silk rayon blend trims 1 silver gelatin frontisp. photo mounted on front pastedown sized 3.5 x 5.5 in. w/ 10 colour-printed & illustrated labels and elastic holders tipped-in numerous printed photographic plates. Quarter-burgundy coloured cloth over simulated alligator boards screw posts at gutter margin minor rubbing slight bumping to corners 1 sample removed still a VG copy. First edition thus of this extraordinary and inventive salesman sample catalogue for elastic trims between the Wars. Horace Jones had invented a specialized braiding machine in 1927 for creating elastics by braiding rubber filaments together with rayon nylon cotton or silk-rayon blends to create a number of different “Elastic†Boil Proof Vida trims. Prior to the widespread introduction of many stretchable and elastic fabrics following World War II Vida Mills products were used shoulder straps for lingerie suspenders both for men and women’s fashions swim trunk and briefs trunk top elastic bands. In addition these were used for car covers bags accessories creating pleats sleeve hems and much more. In addition there are a number of samples included here for durable boot and shoe laces. The coloured and metallic Ric Rac trims were used in costumes uniforms decorative elements on clothing and many other applications. By 1930 the company had deployed 3000 braiding machines generating over 52 million yards of elastic braid annually and in 1940 expanded into manufacturing glass tapes and woven fabrics for electrical installations and industrial Wartime applications. The company still operates today as the Jones Stroud Insulations Ltd. subsidiary of the Krempel Group since 2000. No copies in Worldcat; See: History of Jones Stroud Insulations -- Timeline Krempel 2015; Trade Marks Ordinance Official Gazette Kenya Dec. 4 1956 p. 1315. Vida Mills, Jones Stroud & Co., Ltd., hardcover
1982247441982 Estampe affiche impression offset en couleurs signée en bas dans la planche, 1982, 44 x 54 cm., encadrée.
194624980Paris IMPRIMERIE SEIDO 1946 1 Croquis de René Gruau. Paris, Été 1946, in-4, broché, Imprimerie Seido, couverture rempliée, titre bordeaux, 28 pages dont huit planches.
1930192271930 Gouache et encre de Chine, rehauts d'or, (1930), sur papier collé sur calque, 31.5 x 16.7 cm., encadrée.
1930192421930 Encre de Chine et gouache verte, mine de plomb, annotations marginales, (1930), sur papier cartonné, 28 x 12.4 cm., encadrée.
193022324LANVIN 1930 1 Gouache sur papier crème, titrée et datée dans la partie inférieure droite, Hiver 1930, 42 x 29 cm.
1910228731910 Aquarelle et encre de Chine signée en bas à droite, Draeger, (1910), 35.5 x 25 cm.
194519238(1945) Une maquette préparatoires à la gouache, 21 x 13.5 cm, en couleurs. (1945).
1945247881945 Gouache et collage, 21 x 13.5 cm, (1945).
19507426ABPadova, o.J. (ca. 1950). 33 : 30 cm. 280 Gürtelschnallen montiert auf 15 Tafeln in Klarsichthüllen. Original-Leinenordner.
1927UDG-227[DYL (Yan Bernard)]. REGNIER (Henri de). Le miracle du fil. Paris, Simon Kra, 1927. In-folio en feuilles sous couverture éditeur illustrée et chemise demi-toile éditeur à rabats noués par un ruban. Édition originale de ce recueil de 16 sonnets d'Henri de Régnier imprimé sur les presses de Coulouma, illustré de 16 planches hors-texte en couleurs rehaussées d'or et d'argent de Yan Bernard Dyl reproduites par Daniel Jacomet. Tirage limité à 350 exemplaires numérotés, celui-ci n°106, un des 334 sur papier Canson Montgolfier. Yan Bernard Dyl est un des plus grands illustrateurs du mouvement Art Déco. D'abord publiciste et caricaturiste, il crée ensuite son agence de publicité après avoir été lourdement blessé durant la première guerre mondiale. Il travaille notamment pour Roger & Gallet et Lenthéric et plusieurs de ses créations sont publiées dans l'annuaire du luxe Pan, dirigé par Paul Poiret. Il reçut alors plusieurs commandes pour des ouvrages de bibliophilie dont celui-ci est un parfait exemple. Les illustrations de Dyl permettent d'apprécier le lien entre les motifs et formes Art Déco et la mode de l'époque, par la déclinaison des motifs traditionnels de dentelles. On y retrouve notamment les motifs régionaux de Cluny, Gênes, Bruges, Alençon, Chantilly mais également la dentelle de la Renaissance Espagnole, les Ténérife et les Paraguay. Très bel exemplaire dans sa chemise d'origine en excellente condition. (infimes salissures à la chemise, décharges des gravures comme toujours sinon très bel exemplaire)
194011429ABVienna, n.d.(ca. 1940). 30 : 22 cm. 160 original coloured drawings, partly in silver and gold. On thin transparent paper.
1990121793Köln Benedickt Taschen 1990 1 vol. relié in-4, cartonnage noir de l'éditeur, non paginé, 158 pp. Album d'une centaine de photographies de mode et portraits, en noir et en couleurs, avec un texte du célèbre couturier qui évoque son rapport à la photo depuis l'enfance (en versions allemande, anglaise et française). Bon exemplaire enrichi d'un envoi autographe signé de Lagerfeld à Régine. En bonne condition.
1990121793Köln Benedickt Taschen 1990 1 vol. relié in-4, cartonnage noir de l'éditeur, non paginé, 158 pp. Album d'une centaine de photographies de mode et portraits, en noir et en couleurs, avec un texte du célèbre couturier qui évoque son rapport à la photo depuis l'enfance (en versions allemande, anglaise et française). Bon exemplaire enrichi d'un envoi autographe signé de Lagerfeld à Régine. En bonne condition.
1920217581920 Aquarelle et gouache signée et datée en bas à droite, 1920, 23.5 x 21.5 cm.
1920199741920. Vernacular fashion illustration archive circa 1920s-1950s documents the evolution of women's dress and stylistic ideals across early and mid-twentieth-century design with emphasis on silhouette material and aspirational presentation. The drawings capture shifts from the elongated androgynous forms associated with 1920s and 1930s fashion to the structured tailoring and fitted garments of the postwar period. Elements such as exaggerated shoulders cinched waists and coordinated ensembles situate the works within broader developments in women's fashion including the influence of tailored suits and formal eveningwear. The illustrations also record accessory culture including gloves hats and jewelry positioning dress within a larger system of social signaling and presentation tied to class gender norms and modern consumer identity.<br /> <br /> United States and possibly Europe circa 1920s-1950s. Archive of six original gouache and pencil fashion illustrations on hard mat boards and one on thick watercolor paper each measuring approximately 10 x 7 to 10 x 15 inches. Several works bear artist signatures or initials including examples signed "Virginia" and "G. Wichner." Two dated compositions from April 11 1954 depict coordinated ensembles including a rose-toned set with a pencil skirt and structured blazer rendered with detailed attention to tailoring and fabric accents. Other illustrations include multi-figure studies of women in draped garments with belted waists a single-figure composition in a long gown with fur coat and elongated cigarette holder and portrait studies featuring headpieces veils and bold cosmetic styling. Use of shading color variation and line work emphasizes fabric texture garment movement and body form.<br /> <br /> Produced during a period of significant transformation in women's fashion these illustrations align with the development of modern fashion media including editorial illustration design sketching and commercial garment production. The visual emphasis on proportion tailoring and accessorization reflects the increasing codification of fashion as both industry and cultural expression in the twentieth century. As original works the drawings provide insight into the processes of design visualization and stylistic interpretation supporting research into fashion history gender presentation and visual culture. Light handling wear to mounts and sheets; overall very good condition. unknown
1950218261950. Fashion design archive. 1950s-1960s. This group documents mid-century women's fashion design practice through a sustained body of original sketches and working notes showing how garments were conceived annotated and prepared for construction during a period of stylistic transition in American dress. The material provides direct evidence of design thinking at the level of silhouette fabric selection and pattern planning including repeated attention to cocktail wear outer garments and formal dress. It captures the movement from structured postwar styles toward more experimental and decorative approaches associated with later mid-century fashion with particular emphasis on the technical and aesthetic decisions made by a designer or dressmaker.<br /> <br /> Archive of over 100 original hand-drawn fashion sketches on individual sheets measuring approximately 6.5 x 9 inches executed in ink with extensive handwritten annotations on rectos versos and margins. The drawings depict a range of women's garments including dresses blouses coats and evening wear with recurring titles such as "cocktail dress" "cocktail cape" and "dress." The figures are rendered with attention to line proportion and textile texture often emphasizing drape fitted bodices and surface embellishment. Annotations provide detailed construction guidance including measurements fabric types and pattern instructions. One design for a strappy dress specifies "Pattern: leopard or zebra fur attached.fabric velveteen.color red -- orange -- black." indicating experimentation with bold materials and color combinations. The consistent pairing of image and instruction suggests use as a working portfolio either for client presentation dressmaking production or formal training.<br /> <br /> Mid-century fashion in the United States expanded through department stores home sewing and professional dressmaking with designers and students producing working sketches that translated style into reproducible garments. The presence of detailed technical notes alongside finished illustrations places this archive within that production process linking aesthetic design to practical construction. Light wear from handling; overall very good. A concentrated record of mid-century women's fashion design practice preserving both the visual language and technical methods used to create garments during a period of evolving style. unknown
1950218281950. Fashion design archive likely 1950s to 1960s documenting women's garment design during the mid-century through original working sketches that preserve both style development and the practical language of dressmaking. The archive is strongest as evidence of how women's fashion was conceived on paper before production with repeated attention to silhouette trim fabric and construction. Dresses blouses coats and eveningwear appear throughout placing the material within the visual world of postwar American fashion as it moved from structured elegance toward sharper and more decorative later mid-century forms.<br /> <br /> Archive of over 100 original hand-drawn fashion sketches on individual sheets measuring approximately 6.5 x 9 inches. The drawings are executed in ink and depict a wide range of women's clothing including fitted dresses capes blouses coats and formal designs with careful attention to drape proportion neckline sleeve treatment and surface embellishment. Many sheets are accompanied by dense handwritten notes in the margins or on the reverse recording measurements fabric suggestions and pattern or construction instructions. The combination of illustration and notation gives the sheets the character of working designs rather than purely display drawings and suggests use in dressmaking training or client planning.<br /> <br /> The archive belongs to the history of women's fashion not only as a record of finished styles but as evidence of the design process itself preserving the intermediate stage between idea and garment. Such working sketches show how fashion circulated through manual skill technical knowledge and close attention to fabric and form in the decades before design became fully digitized. Light general wear from use; overall very good. A substantial mid-century design archive that preserves the visual and technical vocabulary of women's fashion making across more than one hundred original sketches. unknown
190556908Chicago IL: American Woolen Mills Co. 1905. Thick elephant folio 17.5 x 21.5 x 3.25 in. 58 pp. printed on thick card stock each mounted on linen hinge. With 6 black & white fashion plates illustrating suit styles of the period with 380 of 400 -- many marked in pencil “O.S.†or Out-of-Stock mounted textile samples in wool wool-silk blends -- all samples clearly marked with prices and availability numerous text illustrations decorative borders printed in colour many showing bucolic scenes of sheep pastures and winter frolics. Black & blue cloth Arts & Crafts gilt lettering & ornament on front cover expertly rebacked and back cover renewed dustsoiling and occasional soiling to some leaves some samples w/ predation and minor loss dampstaining to gutter margin of last few leaves minor loss & damage to last couple leaves still a good copy. First edition of this scarce Progressive-era salesman sample catalogue for Winter season men’s suits overcoats and evening wear. The American Woolen Mills Company also known as the “Progressive Tailorsâ€maintained a huge tailoring operation in Chicago at Union & Washington until the Great Depression employing hundreds of tailors and seamstresses to fill orders. Unlike J.L. Taylor Royal Tailors and many of the other tailoring houses of the period the American Woolen Mills targeted the average white collar clerk or American immigrant salesman and merchant trying to look professional and offered $ 15.00 high class made to measure suits. These catalogues were very expensive to produce and were often issued with minimal company brand names allowing their sales force to target small shops mercantiles and general stores which would have these catalogues on the sales floor for several years. Sales people were directed to simply clip the corners of samples for out-of-stock and discontinued fabrics but they often chose to remove the entire sample in order to not distract potential customers. The catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the era of Teddy Roosevelt and the Anti-Trust policies even referring to these in their sales pitch by claiming that unlike Trusts which “by combining saves numerous expenses and sticks ALL the savings in its own pocket. . . there is no Trust in the tailoring trade.†They further claim that they remove all middlemen procure woolens directly from the weavers and by avoiding wastes of all kinds that AWM CO. lowers their prices and “it is a public benefit.†The textiles here focus on darker shades and very muted colours along with durable thick fabrics while marketing their double-breasted sacks 3-button frock coats 2-button single breasted suits assorted overcoats and more. No copies in Worldcat; See: Swell Nifty Suit Free! The Household Journal Vols. V No. 8 August 1912 p. 6; Machinists’ Monthly Journal Vol. XVII No. 3 March 1905 p. 282. American Woolen Mills Co., hardcover
193773769Chicago: Ferris Woolen Company 1937. Original hinged sample case with drop front 27 3/4 x 11 x7 1/2 inches. Containing 174 thick cards printed in black and red; each with a mounted woolen worsted wool imported wool sample. Original sample display case w/ green textured cloth over boards divided into Three compartments nickel plate slider hinges printed advertising on inner lid and drop front reinforced corners a remarkable display case from the John the Tailor Shop Suits and Overcoats made to order. Wonderful graphic label on interior of lid featuring dapper dressers and period automobiles.Spectacular tailoring sample counter display for men’s suits and overcoats in the Fall & Winter of 1937-1938. Ferris Woolen Company a subsidiary of Wawak Woolens was originally founded in 1922 in Chicago along with Detmer Woolen Co. Bruner Woolen Co. Mason & Hanson Inc. and Salter & Wolf to supply woolens and trimmings to tailors and department stores across the United States. The companies were known for their high-quality wools at a reasonable price and often incorporated imported wool wool silk blends gabardines and tweeds especially from Scotland Wales France and Great Britain. In 1933 the Wawak Co./Ferris Woolen Co. purchased the exclusive right to all the Detmer Bruner Co. customers West of the Mississippi. They quickly began commissioning and producing display cases reflecting the change and proved very successful with the Ferris Woolen Co. catering to the trade into the 1960s. These sample cases were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles and men’s stores which would have these display on the sales floor for two seasons or more often adding or subtracting fabrics as they became available. The samples included with this case offer invaluable textile reference for the colors and fabrics during the era of fashion influenced by the elegance and glamor of Hollywood films and film noir at the time. The styles depicted on the inside of the lid and the drop-down front are reminiscent of the very popular Thin Man fashions worn by William Powell and Myrna Loy at the time. Ferris Woolen Company hardcover
193045898Troy NY: Arrow Shirt Co./ Cluett Peabody & Co. Inc. ca. 1930; 1955. Quarter-sawn oak salesman sample counter display case 18.75 x 6 x 6 ins. with glass top & front door in back with catch w/ original label at bottom of the display indicating that this case was only to be used for the display of the Company collars preserving two Arrow Shirt Co. Collars some scuffing and wear to label at bottom of case affecting lettering minor wear to sides of case together with original Leyendecker advertisement printed on canvas w/ oak frame 28.5 x 21.5 ins. the piece has been professionally cleaned and mounted on archival foam core and removed from the original bars which were damaging the image and placed back in the oak frame some sunning faint discoloration to upper left margin still remarkable pieces. A wonderful advertising display for Arrow shirts and collars including pre-World War II counter sample case and 1950s promotional ad reproducing one of the famed Leyendecker images. These pieces originally came out of a small men’s clothing shop in Bend Oregon. The Arrow collars grew from the marketing idea by Cluett Peabody & Co. in Troy NY that it gave women an easier way to clean their husbands’ stained shirt collars without having to wash the entire shirt. In addition the collars wore out a much faster rate than the rest of the shirts so these replaceable collars would extend the life of the garments. This style of detachable collars remained popular up until the mid-1930s and largely declined out of use by the end of World War II.Leyendecker 1874-1951 created the Arrow Collar Man which was an advertising campaign that ran from 1905 - 1931 and was perhaps one of the most successful product brands in history. He created 100s of images and many of them are still synonymous with men’s fashion and styles. This advertisement was part of a revived campaign by Arrow Shirt Co. in the 1950s through early 1960s as they revived the nostalgia of the Leyendecker ads and pushed their shirts with soft collars. Arrow Shirt Co./ Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., hardcover
190555463Conventry London & New York: J. & J. Cash Ltd. ca. 1905. 4to. 16 pp unpaginated. thick double-sided coated card stock w/ 153 of 154 woven silk labels sized from .5 x 1 in. up to 3 x 3 in. or 2.25 x 5 in. in a myriad of colours many pictorial assorted font styles. Full calf gilt lettering stamped on front cover scuffing edgewear minor ink stain to fore-edge of front cover not affecting textblock minor damage & repair to inner front hinge still a VG- copy. First edition of this exceedingly rare and fascinating salesman sample catalogue of woven silk labels produced by the famed millinery and ribbon novelties company. Founded originally as a ribbon weaving company in 1846 by John and Joseph Cash the firm quickly expanded and developed it’s techniques and products throughout the Victorian and Edwardian eras. They developed whole lines of monogrammed silk labels striking manufacturers silk labels and tailoring labels for identifying clothing lines hosiery hats blankets and more. The labels could be purchased in “Best Quality†and “B Quality†lots by the prospective companies and these samples within the catalogue encompass such examples as those for Spirella Corsets I.&R. Morley’s Theta Flying Wheel shirts H.C Lucking Tailor & Outfitter Shoreham with view of the suspension bridge Snipe Weatherproofs with iconic image of snipe Dracoproof for all Weathers Fair or Foul with image of swimming mallard duck and so many others. The catalogue also includes silk millinery ribbons and labels made in 14 inch lengths quality coat hanger labels beautifully monogrammed badges and hat bands and also includes labels which can be carefully lifted from elastic to show the quality of the weaving. No copies located in Worldcat. J. & J. Cash Ltd., hardcover
1950206231950. Archive of three black and white silver gelatin photographs of black models dating from the 1950s-70s. Photographs measure approx. 8" x 10". This archive includes a press photo from 1974 showing model Beverly Bradshaw posed in front of a museum display of elephants wearing a traditional Nigerian Ibo wrapped dress designed by Angie Ihejirika. Article on verso from the Chicago Sun Times details Mrs. Ihejirika's demonstration of the art of African wrapping at the Field Museum of Natural History. Photo has a bald patch on left side not affecting subject matter. Also included is a print of twelve Kodak film cells showing actress and model Nancy Westbrook in a series of poses sitting within a large picture frame. Seven images show Westbrook in a bikini and five wearing only a fur stole. These photographs date to the early 1950s and least one the third down on the left appeared in Jet Magazine with a short profile of Ms. Westbrook in 1953. Another photograph undated shows a black model in profile from the neck up smiling in a sun hat tilted away from camera to frame her head with a halo-like effect. Modeling in fashion and print has historically been dominated by white women reflecting a bias in beauty standards in the United States. These images show black women claiming space in the often exclusionary fashion world of the mid-late 20th century. Overall very good condition. Three images of black fashion models in the US 1950s-70s. unknown
19208921920 Couverture rigide Paris, Collection Corrard, 1920 (imprimé en 1922). Un volume in-4, portefeuille d'éditeur illustré par Robert Bonfils, plats passés, lacet absent. En feuilles, rabats de papier (le rabat inférieur est détaché), illustré de 12 aquarelles de Robert Bonfils en couleurs, sous serpente, texte de Gérard d'Houville. Tirage limité à 300 exemplaires. Un des 271 exemplaires numérotés sur vélin d'Arches (N°196). Bel état des planches et beau rendu des couleurs, bon exemplaire.