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(Fashion Plates)Biblio.com

Peterson's Magazine - January to June 1867

FASHIONBiblio.com

Parfums Lucien Lelong.

194995082Paris: Lucien Lelong 1949. First edition of this notably rare spectacular promotional brochure for Lelong's fragrances with no other copies traced. Largely forgotten today apart from amongst the couture cognoscenti Lelong 1889-1958 was enormously influential. After the First World War Lelong took charge of his parents' small fashion house which was noted for its espousal of the modern look - the chic autobiographical heroine of Colette's 1908 novella Les Vrilles de la vigne is dressed by Lelong - and continued their tradition of innovation advancing the concept of the "kinétique" clothes "constructed in such a way that their true shape would emerge in movement not at rest". Not a designer himself he employed a number of young designers who were later to strike out on their own. Christian Dior Pierre Balmain and Hubert de Givenchy all spent time developing collections for Lelong. His contribution to the success of the house was in his vision and his marketing brilliance: he redesigned his parents' salon decorating entirely in black so that it was said to resemble a black-lined jewellery box he offered discounts to society women who agreed to be photographed in his dresses and was early into the branded perfume market. The first fragrances offered by Lelong were enigmatically named A B C J and N intending to evoke a sense of mystery and romance. The artfully designed bottles were largely the work of Lelong himself. Over 30 years he created a total of 27 different fragrances. This superbly produced catalogue features ten suitably mysterious and evocative plates by Cassandre né Adolphe Jean-Marie Mouron the Ukrainian-born French painter illustrator poster designer and typographer probably best-known for his imposing poster for the great CGT liner Normandie. Octavo. With 10 chromolithographic plates after illustrations by Cassandre and similarly printed plates from photographs of the perfume bottles themselves by Réné Messager. Original plain boards in cream wrapper front panel with company device embossed within debossed cartouche. Wrappers a little rubbed and irregularly toned spine slightly chipped at ends repair to short split at head of front joint contemporary gift inscription to front free endpaper else very good. hardcover

Peter Harrington · Royaume-Uni1 500,00 £GB≈ 1 712,70 €

[FASHION -- MEN'S SHIRTS]. [LEYENDECKER, Joseph Christian].Biblio.com

Original small salesman’s sample oak & glass counter display for Arrow collars preserving two original collars; Leyendecker advertisement for Arrow shirts & collars with Arrow man holding the tiller of a sailboat with young woman companion leaning against the rail looking over her shoulder.

193045898Troy NY: Arrow Shirt Co./ Cluett Peabody & Co. Inc. ca. 1930; 1955. Quarter-sawn oak salesman sample counter display case 18.75 x 6 x 6 ins. with glass top & front door in back with catch w/ original label at bottom of the display indicating that this case was only to be used for the display of the Company collars preserving two Arrow Shirt Co. Collars some scuffing and wear to label at bottom of case affecting lettering minor wear to sides of case together with original Leyendecker advertisement printed on canvas w/ oak frame 28.5 x 21.5 ins. the piece has been professionally cleaned and mounted on archival foam core and removed from the original bars which were damaging the image and placed back in the oak frame some sunning faint discoloration to upper left margin still remarkable pieces. A wonderful advertising display for Arrow shirts and collars including pre-World War II counter sample case and 1950s promotional ad reproducing one of the famed Leyendecker images. These pieces originally came out of a small men’s clothing shop in Bend Oregon. The Arrow collars grew from the marketing idea by Cluett Peabody & Co. in Troy NY that it gave women an easier way to clean their husbands’ stained shirt collars without having to wash the entire shirt. In addition the collars wore out a much faster rate than the rest of the shirts so these replaceable collars would extend the life of the garments. This style of detachable collars remained popular up until the mid-1930s and largely declined out of use by the end of World War II.Leyendecker 1874-1951 created the Arrow Collar Man which was an advertising campaign that ran from 1905 - 1931 and was perhaps one of the most successful product brands in history. He created 100s of images and many of them are still synonymous with men’s fashion and styles. This advertisement was part of a revived campaign by Arrow Shirt Co. in the 1950s through early 1960s as they revived the nostalgia of the Leyendecker ads and pushed their shirts with soft collars. Arrow Shirt Co./ Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis850,00 $US≈ 719,19 €

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