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Daumier, Honoré - 1808 Marseille ? Valmondais 1879Antiquariat.de

UN ÈCHANTILLON de ce qui appèle quelquefois les Beaux de Paris.

(DOEUILLET Georges) MARTY André-EdouardMareMagnum

Un peu d'ombre, enfin ! Robe d'après-midi de Doeuillet (pl.5, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1913 n°8)

- Lucien Vogel éditeur, Paris Juin 1913, 19x24,5cm, une feuille. - Original color print, printed on vergé paper, signed in the plate. An original print used to illustrate the Gazette du bon ton, one of the most attractive and influential 20th century fashion magazines, featuring the talents of French artists and other contributors from the burgeoning Art Deco movement. A celebrated fashion magazine established in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton appeared until 1925, with a hiatus from 1915 to 1920 due to the war (the editor-in-chief having been called up for service). It consisted of 69 issues printed in only 2,000 copies each and notably illustrated with 573 color plates and 148 sketches of the models of the great designers. Right from the start, this sumptuous publication "was aimed at bibliophiles and fashionable society," (Françoise Tétart-Vittu, "La Gazette du bon ton", in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016) and was printed on fine vergé paper using a type cut specially for the magazine by Georges Peignot, known as Cochin, later used (in 1946) by Christian Dior. The prints were made using stencils, heightened in colors, some highlighted in gold or palladium. The story began in 1912, when Lucien Vogel, a man of the world involved in fashion (he had already been part of the fashion magazine Femina) decided, with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff - the sister of Jean, creator of Babar - to set up the Gazette du bon ton, subtitled at the time: "Art, fashion, frivolities." Georges Charensol noted the reasoning of the editor-in-chief: "'In 1910,' he observed, 'there was no really artistic fashion magazine, nothing representative of the spirit of the time. My dream was therefore to make a luxury magazine with truly modern artists...I was assured of success, because when it comes to fashion, no country on earth can compete with France.'" ("Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel" in Les Nouvelles littéraires, no. 133, May 1925). The magazine was immediately successful, not only in France but also in the United States and Latin America. At first, Vogel put together a team of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt, as well as eventually his friends from school and the School of Fine Arts, like George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Charles Martin. Other talented people soon came flocking to join the team: Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Chalres Martin, Maggie Salcedo. These artist, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel sought them out, later became emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. It was also they who worked on the advertising drawings for the Gazette. The plates put the spotlight on, and celebrate, dresses by seven designers of the age: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The designers provided exclusive models for each issue. Nonetheless, some of the illustrations are not based on real models, but simply on the illustrator's conception of the fashion of the day. The Gazette du bon ton was an important step in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic demands with the physical whole, it brought together - for the first time - the great talents of the artistic, literary, and fashion worlds; and imposed, through this alchemy, a completely new image of women: slender, independent and daring, which was shared by the new generation of designers, including Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas, and so on... Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, the Gazette du bon ton was an important influence on the new layout and aesthetics of that "little dying paper" that Nast had bought a few years earlier: Vogue. [FRENCH VERSION FOLLOWS] Estampe originale en couleur, tirée sur papier vergé, signée en bas à droite dans la planche. L'une des plus belles et des plus

Librairie Feu Follet · Paris, FR138,00 €

(POIRET Paul) MARTY André-EdouardMareMagnum

Un peu d'air. Robe du soir, de Paul Poiret (pl.21, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1921 n°3)

- Lucien Vogel éditeur, Paris 1921, 18x24cm, une feuille. - Estampe originale en couleur, tirée sur papier vergé, signée en bas à droite de la planche. Gravure originale réalisée pour l'illustration de La Gazette du bon ton, l'une des plus belles et des plus influentes revues de mode du XXème siècle, célébrant le talent des créateurs et des artistes français en plein essor de l'art déco. Célèbre revue de mode fondée en 1912 par Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton a paru jusqu'en 1925 avec une interruption durant la Guerre de 1915 à 1920, pour cause de mobilisation de son rédacteur en chef. Elle se constitue de 69 livraisons tirées à seulement 2000 exemplaires et est illustrée notamment de 573 planches en couleurs et de 148 croquis représentant des modèles de grands couturiers. Dès leur parution, ces luxueuses publications « s'adressent aux bibliophiles et aux mondains esthètes » (Françoise Tétart-Vittu « La Gazette du bon ton » in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016). Imprimées sur beau papier vergé, elles utilisent une police typographique spécialement créée pour la revue par Georges Peignot, le caractère Cochin, repris en 1946 par Christian Dior. Les estampes sont réalisées grâce à la technique du pochoir métallique, rehaussées en couleurs et pour certaines soulignées à l'or ou au palladium. L'aventure commence en 1912 lorsque Lucien Vogel, homme du monde et de la mode - il a déjà participé à la revue Femina - décide de fonder avec sa femme Cosette de Brunhoff (sur de Jean, le père de Babar) la Gazette du bon ton dont le sous-titre est alors « Art, modes et frivolités ». Georges Charensol rapporte les propos du rédacteur en chef : « En 1910, observe-t-il, il n'existait aucun journal de mode véritablement artistique et représentatif de l'esprit de son époque. Je songeais donc à faire un magazine de luxe avec des artistes véritablement modernes [...] J'étais certain du succès car pour la mode aucun pays ne peut rivaliser avec la France. » (« Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel » in Les Nouvelles littéraires, n°133, mai 1925). Le succès de la revue est immédiat, non seulement en France, mais aussi aux Etats-Unis et en Amérique du Sud. À l'origine, Vogel réunit donc un groupe de sept artistes : André-Édouard Marty et Pierre Brissaud, suivis de Georges Lepape et Dammicourt ; et enfin ses amis de l'École des beaux-arts que sont George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel, ou Charles Martin. D'autres talents viennent rapidement rejoindre l'équipée : Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Charles Martin, Maggie Salcedo. Ces artistes, inconnus pour la plupart lorsque Lucien Vogel fait appel à eux, deviendront par la suite des figures artistiques emblématiques et recherchées. Ce sont ces mêmes illustrateurs qui réalisent les dessins des publicités de la Gazette. Les planches mettent en lumière et subliment les robes de sept créateurs de l'époque : Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet et Doucet. Les couturiers fournissent pour chaque numéro des modèles exclusifs. Néanmoins, certaines des illustrations ne figurent aucun modèle réel, mais seulement l'idée que l'illustrateur se fait de la mode du jour. La Gazette du bon ton est une étape décisive dans l'histoire de la mode. Alliant l'exigence esthétique et l'unité plastique, elle réunit pour la première fois les grands talents du monde des arts, des lettres et de la mode et impose, par cette alchimie, une toute nouvelle image de la femme, élancée, indépendante et audacieuse, également portée par la nouvelle génération de couturiers Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas... Reprise en 1920 par Condé Montrose Nast, la Gazette du bon ton inspirera largement la nouvelle composition et les choix esthétiques du « petit journal mourant » que Nast avait racheté quelques années auparavant : le magazine Vogue. [ENGLISH DESCRIPTION

Librairie Feu Follet · Paris, FR138,00 €

SIMEONMareMagnum

Un peu beaucoup. (La Gazette du Bon ton, n°5. Année 1920 - Planche 34 )

- Lucien Vogel éditeur, Paris 1920, 19,5x25cm, une feuille. - Original color print, printed on vergé paper, signed in the plate. An original print used to illustrate the Gazette du bon ton, one of the most attractive and influential 20th century fashion magazines, featuring the talents of French artists and other contributors from the burgeoning Art Deco movement. A celebrated fashion magazine established in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton appeared until 1925, with a hiatus from 1915 to 1920 due to the war (the editor-in-chief having been called up for service). It consisted of 69 issues printed in only 2,000 copies each and notably illustrated with 573 color plates and 148 sketches of the models of the great designers. Right from the start, this sumptuous publication "was aimed at bibliophiles and fashionable society," (Françoise Tétart-Vittu, "La Gazette du bon ton", in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016) and was printed on fine vergé paper using a type cut specially for the magazine by Georges Peignot, known as Cochin, later used (in 1946) by Christian Dior. The prints were made using stencils, heightened in colors, some highlighted in gold or palladium. The story began in 1912, when Lucien Vogel, a man of the world involved in fashion (he had already been part of the fashion magazine Femina) decided, with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff - the sister of Jean, creator of Babar - to set up the Gazette du bon ton, subtitled at the time: "Art, fashion, frivolities." Georges Charensol noted the reasoning of the editor-in-chief: "'In 1910,' he observed, 'there was no really artistic fashion magazine, nothing representative of the spirit of the time. My dream was therefore to make a luxury magazine with truly modern artists...I was assured of success, because when it comes to fashion, no country on earth can compete with France.'" ("Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel" in Les Nouvelles littéraires, no. 133, May 1925). The magazine was immediately successful, not only in France but also in the United States and Latin America. At first, Vogel put together a team of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt, as well as eventually his friends from school and the School of Fine Arts, like George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Charles Martin. Other talented people soon came flocking to join the team: Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Chalres Martin, Maggie Salcedo. These artist, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel sought them out, later became emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. It was also they who worked on the advertising drawings for the Gazette. The plates put the spotlight on, and celebrate, dresses by seven designers of the age: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The designers provided exclusive models for each issue. Nonetheless, some of the illustrations are not based on real models, but simply on the illustrator's conception of the fashion of the day. The Gazette du bon ton was an important step in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic demands with the physical whole, it brought together - for the first time - the great talents of the artistic, literary, and fashion worlds; and imposed, through this alchemy, a completely new image of women: slender, independent and daring, which was shared by the new generation of designers, including Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas, and so on... Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, the Gazette du bon ton was an important influence on the new layout and aesthetics of that "little dying paper" that Nast had bought a few years earlier: Vogue. [FRENCH VERSION FOLLOWS] Estampe originale en couleur tirée sur papier vergé, signée en bas au centre dans la planche. Gravure originale réalisée pour l'illu

Librairie Feu Follet · Paris, FR69,00 €

SIMEON FernandMareMagnum

Un peu beaucoup (pl.34, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1920 n°5)

- Lucien Vogel éditeur, Paris Juin 1920, 18x24cm, une feuille. - Original color print, printed on vergé paper, non signed. An original print used to illustrate the Gazette du bon ton, one of the most attractive and influential 20th century fashion magazines, featuring the talents of French artists and other contributors from the burgeoning Art Deco movement. A celebrated fashion magazine established in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton appeared until 1925, with a hiatus from 1915 to 1920 due to the war (the editor-in-chief having been called up for service). It consisted of 69 issues printed in only 2,000 copies each and notably illustrated with 573 color plates and 148 sketches of the models of the great designers. Right from the start, this sumptuous publication "was aimed at bibliophiles and fashionable society," (Françoise Tétart-Vittu, "La Gazette du bon ton", in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016) and was printed on fine vergé paper using a type cut specially for the magazine by Georges Peignot, known as Cochin, later used (in 1946) by Christian Dior. The prints were made using stencils, heightened in colors, some highlighted in gold or palladium. The story began in 1912, when Lucien Vogel, a man of the world involved in fashion (he had already been part of the fashion magazine Femina) decided, with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff - the sister of Jean, creator of Babar - to set up the Gazette du bon ton, subtitled at the time: "Art, fashion, frivolities." Georges Charensol noted the reasoning of the editor-in-chief: "'In 1910,' he observed, 'there was no really artistic fashion magazine, nothing representative of the spirit of the time. My dream was therefore to make a luxury magazine with truly modern artists...I was assured of success, because when it comes to fashion, no country on earth can compete with France.'" ("Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel" in Les Nouvelles littéraires, no. 133, May 1925). The magazine was immediately successful, not only in France but also in the United States and Latin America. At first, Vogel put together a team of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt, as well as eventually his friends from school and the School of Fine Arts, like George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Charles Martin. Other talented people soon came flocking to join the team: Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Chalres Martin, Maggie Salcedo. These artist, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel sought them out, later became emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. It was also they who worked on the advertising drawings for the Gazette. The plates put the spotlight on, and celebrate, dresses by seven designers of the age: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The designers provided exclusive models for each issue. Nonetheless, some of the illustrations are not based on real models, but simply on the illustrator's conception of the fashion of the day. The Gazette du bon ton was an important step in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic demands with the physical whole, it brought together - for the first time - the great talents of the artistic, literary, and fashion worlds; and imposed, through this alchemy, a completely new image of women: slender, independent and daring, which was shared by the new generation of designers, including Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas, and so on... Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, the Gazette du bon ton was an important influence on the new layout and aesthetics of that "little dying paper" that Nast had bought a few years earlier: Vogue. [FRENCH VERSION FOLLOWS] Estampe originale en couleur, tirée sur papier vergé, non-signée. Gravure originale réalisée pour l'illustration de La Gazette du bon ton

Librairie Feu Follet · Paris, FR81,00 €

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